If the 1/2" gap is not what you want, then do the same with the fernco's on both sides, just repeat what I described, minus the gaps, using glued pieces in both ends of fitting. Once its in, you are lined up with the fitting glued to existing, with only 1 rubber connection underground. This will be a struggle to get this fitting in, that is why I mentioned a 1/2" gap between the pipes, because the piping will have to be angled to get started. Then, prep the joint where the fitting is about to be glued to the downstream piping, and use alot of glue in this process. Then, take fitting back off, glue short piece of piping into the fitting where the fernco has to slide back over. Then install a fernco coupling and push it all the way up on the other pipe that is existing, flush with the end of the pipe. I then dry fit the fitting, measure the distance of the other hub inside to the other pipe MINUS 1/2". I then cut the other pipe anywhere I want, a minimim of 9" from the hub of the fitting I am installing upstream. I mark the pipe for the exact measurement on the hub.
If it is a wye, I have more flexibility where the fitting goes. I cut the pipe exactly where I want the tee to come up. The way I do this type of install is fairly easy. The situation usually doesn't correct itself either. This presence of water is common in homes, some worse than others. The grinder sounds like a serious dust maker When you reseal the hole with concrete mix it will fill in evenly. I am not sure that the grinder will help as concrete breaks unevenly. You have probably thought of this but make sure you keep the un connectted sewer drains plugged to prevent gasses getting into the house. My last effort was in a very damp area and moisture was limited to damp soil. It is very unlikey to see any water in the whole. The only source of water would be ground water. The exposure of the drain pipe will be the widest (12 to 18") as you need to get the chain break ( cast iron pipe ) or saw (plastic pipe) into the hole and more clearance is required. To answer your question on clearances the shower and sink drains will need to be about 8 inches wide in the concrete and the toilet closer to a foot. I have now done this 3 times twice by hammer and chisel and once by Jack Hammer, Jack Hammer wins. A minor cost compared to the time savings. First I would suggest that instead of a star drill and grinder that you seriously consider renting an electric jack hammer.
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